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Royal Palace, Phnom Penh

March 15, 2013
Santa Paula News

By Don Johnson

Santa Paula Times

Our next stop in Phnom Penh was the Royal Palace. This was the home of the Cambodian kings and was just an awesome area to visit. The palace was grand and impressive.

The one thing we found out was King Norodom Sihanouk had died in October in China. The king was very much loved by the people, despite some of the horrific issues that occurred during his reign.

King Sihanouk’s body was at the Royal Palace, and thousands of Cambodians were visiting the Royal Palace daily to show their respect.

Under Cambodian tradition the body of the king was to be cremated; however, this could not be done until an official crematory could be built. This project was completed in February of this year and the cremation recently occurred.

Norodom Sihanouk (October 31,1922 - October 15, 2012) was the king of Cambodia from 1941 to 1955 and again from 1993 to 2004. He was the effective ruler of Cambodia from 1953 to 1970. After his second abdication in 2004, he was known as “The King-Father of Cambodia” (Khmer: Preahmâhaviraksat), a position in which he retained many of his former responsibilities as constitutional monarch.

The son of King Norodom Suramarit and Queen Sisowath Kossamak, Sihanouk held so many positions since 1941 that the Guinness Book of World Records identifies him as the politician who has served the world’s greatest variety of political offices. These included two terms as king, two as sovereign prince, one as president, two as prime minister, and numerous positions as leader of various governments-in-exile. He served as puppet head of state for the Khymer Rouge government in 1975-1976.

Most of these positions were only honorific, including the last position as constitutional king of Cambodia. Sihanouk’s actual period of effective rule over Cambodia was from November 9, 1953, when Cambodia gained its independence from France, until March 18, 1970, when General Lon Nol and the National Assembly deposed him.

The Royal Palace in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, is a complex of buildings that served as the royal residence of the king of Cambodia. The Kings of Cambodia have occupied it since it was built in 1860s, with a period of absence when the country came into turmoil during and after the reign of the Khmer Rouge.

The palace was constructed after King Norodom relocated the royal capital from Oudong to Phnom Penh in the mid-19th century. It was gradually built atop an old citadel called Banteay Kev. It faces toward the east and is situated at the western bank of the cross division of the Tonle Sap River and the Mekong River.

The establishment of the Royal Palace at Phnom Penh in 1866 is a comparatively recent event in the history of the Khmer and Cambodia. The seat of Khmer power in the region rested at or near Angkor north of the Great Tonle Sap Lake from 802 AD until the early 15th century. 

After the Khmer court moved from Angkor in the 15th century after it was destroyed by Siam it first settled in Phnom Penh - which back then was named Krong Chatomok Serei Mongkol - in 1434  and stayed for some decades, but by 1494 it had moved on to Basan, and later Longvek and then Oudong. The capital did not return to Phnom Penh until the 19th century, and there is no record or remnants of any Royal Palace in Phnom Penh prior to the 19th century. 

In 1813, King Ang Chan (1796-1834) constructed Banteay Kev (the ‘Crystal Citadel’) on the site of the current Royal Palace and stayed there very briefly before moving to Oudong. Banteay Kev was burned in 1834 when the retreating Siamese army razed Phnom Penh. 

It was not until after the implementation of the French Protectorate in Cambodia in 1863 that the capital was moved from Oudong to Phnom Penh, and the current Royal Palace was founded and constructed. At the time that King Norodom (1860-1904), the eldest son of King Ang Duong, who ruled on behalf of Siam, signed the Treaty of Protection with France in 1863, the capital of Cambodia resided at Oudong, about 45 kilometers northeast of Phnom Penh. 

Earlier in 1863 a temporary wooden palace was constructed a bit north of the current palace site in Phnom Penh. The first royal palace to be built at the present location was designed by architect Neak Okhna Tepnimith Mak and constructed by the French Protectorate in 1866. 

In the year of 1865, year of the cow, at nine o’clock in the morning, King Norodom moved the royal court from Oudong to the new royal palace in Phnom Penh and the city became the official capital of Cambodia the following year. Over the next decade several buildings and houses were added, many of which have since been demolished and replaced, including an early Chanchhaya Pavilion and Throne Hall (1870). 

The royal court was installed permanently at the new Royal Palace in 1871 and the walls surrounding the grounds were raised in 1873. Many of the buildings of the Royal Palace, particularly of this period, were constructed using a combination of traditional Khmer architecture and Thai architecture, but also incorporating significant European features and design as well. One of the most unique surviving structures from this period is the Napoleon iron Pavilion, which was a gift from France in 1876 (it is now closed to the public because of its poor state of conservation).

King Sisowath (1904-1927) made several major contributions to the current Royal Palace, adding the Phochani Hall in 1907 (inaugurated in 1912), and from 1913-1919 demolishing several old buildings, replacing and expanding the old Chanchhaya Pavilion and the Throne Hall with the current structures. These buildings employ traditional Khmer artistic style and Angkorian inspired design, particularly in the Throne Hall, though some European elements remain. 

The next major construction came in the 1930s under King Monivong with the addition of the Royal Chapel, Vihear Suor (1930), and the demolition and replacement of the old royal residence with the Khemarin Palace (1931), which serves as the official royal residence to this day. To the reign of King Sihanouk, other significant additions are the 1956 addition of the Villa Kantha Bopha to accommodate foreign guests and the 1953 construction of the Damnak Chan - originally installed to house the High Council of the Throne.

All Debbie and I can say is the Royal Palace was gleaming in gold. The Royal Palace is one of Phnom Penh’s most splendid architectural achievements and was well worth the visit.